n00b Corner: Postponed

This week's n00b Corner is blowing my mind. I realize now that I need to devote more time to the topic. So I'm crapping out just this once and postponing it a week.

If you want to weigh in on Continental vs English (and the billions of other techniques and variations) please join in at this Ravelry thread. You can also e-mail me or leave a comment.

This feature will return next week. (I promise.)

n00b Corner: Your First Yarn (and Needles)

In the last month or two, as I've made an effort to clean up my finances, I've started reading some personal finance blogs. One of my favorites is The Simple Dollar. Trent knows about personal finance and saving money, and he writes about it in a way the average person can understand.

But a recent post entitled 100 Things to do During a Money Free Weekend revealed something about Trent. Here's number 17 on the list:

"Teach yourself how to knit. Knitting requires two needles (a dollar, or probably free if your closet looks anything like ours), some yarn (extremely cheap and also likely laying in the closet if your home is like ours), a lot of patience, and an instructional video or two. Try making a scarf or two for your friends or a small blanket for a new baby in the home of a friend or a family member. While it’s not quite free, if you stick with it, you’ll make things much more valuable than the input cost of a bit of yarn, plus you may learn a compelling new skill."

Trent knows finance. Trent doesn't know knitting.

But that's ok. I know knitting. And we're going to talk about what needles and yarn to start out with.

I'm going to try not to get too far into the types of fiber here. That's my criticism of a lot of beginning knitting books. The first chapter often goes into materials in great detail. It's valuable information, but too in-depth and overwhelming for someone just starting out. I'm only covering wool, cotton and acrylic, but actually, there are many, many more fibers out there. I'm going to focus on the information you need for your first yarn and needle purchase.

A Little Bit on the Cost of Knitting
I don't want to be too hard on Trent. But number 17 on his list seems to represent the common misconception that knitting is inherently cheap and thrifty.

I should point two of the main reasons I read The Simple Dollar are:
1. I already spent too much money on yarn.
2. I want more money to buy more yarn.

However, I don't want to scare people away. You don't have to go into debt buying yarn. But it's easy to start falling in love in fiber, and buying more than you need. Most knitters have a "stash" of collected yarn. And some talk about reaching (or avoiding) "SABLE" - Stash Accumulated Beyond Life Expectancy.

If you're more level headed, you don't have to spend nearly as much. But I wouldn't think about yarn as being "extremely cheap."

But I digress...

The Controversy of Acrylic
I know the "extremely cheap" yarn Trent's talking about. And if you've never been to a yarn shop, you're probably thinking of the same stuff.

It's this yarn, isn't it?

Unless they buy their supplies from a yarn shop or under the close guidance of an experienced knitter, most knitters start out with an acrylic yarn by Red Heart. Red Heart seems to be the most ubiquitous non-shop yarn out there. It's inexpensive and it's everywhere. It's almost a punchline in the knitting world. But, at least in my opinion, it's not a bad place to start.

The Red Heart you're thinking of is made of acrylic, a manmade fiber. (However, it's worth noting that Red Heart does have different yarn lines that aren't acrylic.) Many of the less expensive yarns sold in craft stores and discount stores like Walmart are acrylic.

It's also worth noting that online discussions of acrylic yarn online can easily devolve into flame wars. I can't really tell you why. No one knows for sure. I suspect it touches on a sort of class warfare. It brings up real world issues of income. Also, in the knitting world, there's often a sense that acrylic knitters "just don't get it" and non-acrylic knitters are looking down on them. I'm not subscribing to either viewpoint. But as a new knitter, you may not be prepared for the passionate debates about acrylic.

The main arguments for acrylic are that it's inexpensive and easy to care for. You can throw an acrylic item in the washing machine with little worry.

In an online discussion, Meagan said she got her friends started with the Red Heart yarn mentioned above.

"Most of them learned how to knit and never really went any further than making a few scarves, so they didn't feel the need for fancy yarn or needles," she said.

Someone suggested that a nicer yarn might have gotten them hooked on knitting for life. She responded, "Probably not, none of us really had a lot of money."

She makes a good point. If you don't have the money, you don't have money. Bev 801 believes that the important thing is just to get people knitting:

"I say ttp those too cheap to invest in a craft they may not want to dedicate pennies to yet, pull out the spare take-out chopsticks and a spool of dental floss. If they decide they hate it, they can still have clean teeth."

Very true.

The main downside of acrylic is the feel and the fact that it doesn't breath.

This is where the "you just don't get it" factor comes in. A lot of beginners can't really tell the difference, but after using wool and other natural fibers, many complain that acrylic starts to feel plastic and chalky.

Sarah points out that she really got interested in knitting when she started using nicer fibers.

"I have known how to knit since I was a kid, but I had only ever used acrylic and cheap wool, because I didn’t want to lay out any money knowing I would get bored and put it down. Then one day I had some time to kill and wandered into a department store with a lovely yarn dept. I fell in love with a crocheted afghan pattern, in a book with instructions, and bought some Cotton Glace in 3 colours to start it. I never managed the blanket but found some old knitting needles lying around and started a scarf, it was so luxurious compared to what I had used in the past, and I haven’t stopped since then. It certainly proved to me what a difference yarn you love can be, and thinking about it now, why should we make new knitters learn with yarn and patterns that we wouldn’t enjoy knitting ourselves? You wouldn’t teach someone to cook and start with liver and onions just because it’s cheap?"

Sarah makes a good point. Although it worked for her, I personally wouldn't recommend Cotton Glace as a beginning yarn, and I'll explain why later. But the point is, a nicer yarn can be more inspiring.

Wool
Wool seems to be the most universally recommended yarn for beginning knitters, for numerous reasons. The feel we talked about above is a big one. Wool has a reputation for being itchy. However, you have to keep in mind that all wools are not equal. It all depends on the sheep, and the way it's processed. Also, it softens a lot after being washed.

However, in my opinion the main benefit of wool is that has more "give" than acrylic. Wool has more of a tendency to snap back into shape after being pulled, which makes it easier to work with. This is subtle difference, but it's enough to even out the stitches. Also, some new knitters tend to knit really tightly, which makes give important.

While it's more expensive than acrylic, some wool yarns can be fairly affordable. I'll list some specific brands later on. Again, price depends on a lot of factors. There are also several blends of wool and acrylic and out there that have the best of both worlds. I'll name some of those as well.

A Quick Word on Cotton
Earlier I said I wouldn't recommend Cotton Glace for a beginner. That's because it's cotton, and cotton has very little give. Even less than acrylic. This will magnify your mistakes, and every uneven stitch. I even know a few experienced, finicky knitters who avoid 100% cotton altogether. They say it's heavy and hurts their hands. However, I think these knitters are in the minority. Most knitters don't feel that strongly about the feel of cotton, and eventually, you should try it. Just not the first time.

But if you want to knit a dishcloth, and actually wash dishes with it, needs to be cotton. Wool and 100% acrylic do not hold up to washing dishes. (Other fibers like hemp also work, but we won't get into that here.)

Dishcloths are a popular beginner project, and you may find the cotton is not so bad. But for your first knitting, I would avoid 100% Cotton if you're not knitting a dishcloth.

There are some cotton/acrylic blends out there, like the wool/acrylic blends, that provide a little more give. I'll list those later on. They would probably also work for dishcloths.

Yarn Weights
Yarns come in different weights, although the term "weight" is misleading. It has more to do with thickness than how much it weighs.

This chart details the different weights and classifications. I won't get into the details of the different weights now. I'm going to recommend finding a "worsted" weight yarn. Most beginning knitters seems to be comfortable with worsted weight, and worsted weight is easy to find. You can also go with yarn labeled "Aran" weight. (Technically, Aran weight is thicker than worsted weight, but the terms are often used interchangeably. For now either one will work.)

Yarn weights are almost always listed on the label. Some will have the official Yarn Standards symbol of a skein of yarn with a number 4 in it. Worsted is officially classified as category 4, medium.

A few people recommend chunkier yarns and larger needles, because the stitches are easier to see. This isn't a bad idea. I think the biggest problem is that it makes materials harder to choose, unless you have someone guiding you. Worsted is just easier to find.

Now that you have yarn, you'll need some needles.

Needle Size
Needle sizes are classified in two systems, a US system and a system the rest of the world uses. I don't know why the US has a separate system. It's probably related to the reason the US hasn't converted to metric.

The rest of the world uses the actual millimeters in diameter to describe the size of their needles. The US uses a set of numbers that corresponds to size. The larger the number, the thicker the needle. There's an "official" chart here.

So when you pick out a needle size, it's important to make sure you are reading the right number. The length of the needle is listed as well, but we are talking about thickness here. Make sure you are reading the thickness number, not the length. When people talk about needle size, usually they are talking about thickness unless they actually specify that they are referring to the length. (Or if they are talking in inches.)

For a beginner, length isn't really that important. As long as the needle looks long enough to fit all the stitches for your project, you're in good shape.

Needle size varies with yarn weight and the individual knitter. But there seems to be a consensus that US Size 8, or 5 mm, is a good size for beginners to use with worsted weight yarn. If you're using a different weight yarn, you'll probably need a different size.

Needle size matters more when you're trying to get a certain stitch size, as needed for getting a garment to fit, or working with a different weight of yarn. Also, some knitters learn that they need bigger or smaller needles depending on their knitting style. I know from experience that I will always need smaller needles than what's recommended. But if you've never knit before, you don't know your style yet. US Size 8 is a good place to start. If you later find that you want your stitches tighter, get a smaller size. If you want them looser, get a larger size.

Metal, Wood, Bamboo, Plastic and more
Needles come in a wide variety of materials, and every knitter has their own opinion about which one is best. Many say not to use metal needles at first because they're slippery. However, when I think about how tight my stitches were when I learned to knit, I couldn't imagine using anything but metal.

Yarn will generally slide better on metal needles than on wood or bamboo. Plastic is somewhere in between, although some people just plain hate plastic needles all around. It's another one of those "feel" things. The general rule is that metal is better for fibers with more "grip" and wood, bamboo or plastic for yarns that are slipperier.

Basically, I would just buy whatever you can find for now. Later on you'll have more opinions on what to use, and you may change your mind. It seems to be an intensely personal preference.

Circular or Straight
Straight needles are probably the needles you think of when you think of knitting. They are the ones most commonly depicted in pop culture.

But there are two other kinds of needles, circular needles and double pointed needles (aka dpns). For now, don't worry about double pointed needles. You probably don't need them yet.

Circular needles are two short needles connected by a cable where the other stitches sit. They're great for working in the round (basically, if you are knitting one big circle) or if you are knitting something very wide and don't want to worry about cramming all the stitches on your straight needles. But really, you can do anything on circulars that you can do on straights. In fact, you can go your entire knitting career without ever using straights. Circulars are more versatile than straights. Also, they take some of the weight off your wrists.

According to saracan:

"For needles, I’d suggest circular needles, as they are more versatile than straights, its easier to store your knitting (a hair tie wrapped around the ends will secure them just fine), and I find I don’t drop stitches as often. I think they are also easier to maneuver than big straight needles."

Then why do we use straights? I can't think of a better reason than "I just like them." There's something classic about straight needles. I like the way they feel. And there's usually a better selection of them at craft stores and discount stores.

Where to Buy
In the beginning, I've talked about the Red Heart you always see in craft stores like Joann, Hobby Lobby and Michaels, as well as some discount stores. When it comes to yarn, there is a distinct line between what a Local Yarn Shop (aka LYS) sells and what craft stores sell. You'll almost never see the same yarn in both a craft store as you will your LYS.

In general, your LYS will have more expensive products, but they'll also be higher quality. But to me the main reason to go is that you can guidance from someone who knows what they're doing. I'm sure that there are some yarn savvy employees at craft stores, but you can't count on it. I don't know how many times I've asked an employee at my local Hobby Lobby a question and gotten a response like "Maybe those needles are more expensive because they're for harder knitting" or "I don't know. I don't work in the sewing section." (FYI - Needles are not priced by the difficulty of the knitting. In fact, except for double pointed needles, there is almost no correlation between the needle and the difficulty of the knitting.)

BTW - The instructors at crafts stores are an exception. They know what they're doing, but unless you enroll in a class, they won't be there to answer your questions.

At almost any yarn shop, you should find an employee who will take you by the hand and help you pick things out. If they don't or can't at least answer some basic questions, I wouldn't give them your business. (Unless the shop is swamped or there are some unusual circumstances)

There are several directories of yarn shops online, including this one and this one. If you don't live near a yarn shop (and I've been there) at least go to a craft store. And if you don't live near a craft store (I've been there too), going to Walmart is better than nothing. (at least until they close the craft section.) And if you don't live near a Walmart, well bless your heart! (Wow, that was a really Texan moment.)

Seriously though, there are some online retailers you can go to. But it may be worth a road trip to get to a yarn shop if you are dedicated. It can be a magical experience. According to Mary:

"When I learned to knit as an adult, my next door neighbor told me to go down to the LYS and pick out the yarn that appealed to me and to ask for help getting the right size needle. Not having been in a yarn shop before, I was amazed beyond belief. I just started reading labels…..made in Turkey, made in France, made in Spain - talk about your eye candy."

Recommended Supplies
If I have failed in my mission not to confuse or overwhelm you, just buy one of the yarns below:

Yarns you can probably find at a Local Yarn Store (LYS):

Cascade 220 - Wool
Brown Sheep Nature Spun Worsted - Wool
Ella Rae Classic - Wool
Mission Falls 1824 Wool Yarn - Wool
Plymouth Encorse (Worsted) - Wool/Acrylic blend
Ella Rae Amity - Wool/Acrylic blend
Mission Falls 1824 Cotton - Cotton

Yarns you can probably find at a craft store (or maybe a discount store):

Patons Classic Merino Wool - Wool
Lion Brand Wool Yarn (aka Lion Wool) - Wool
Lion Brand Wool Ease Worsted - Wool/Acrylic Blend
Lion Brand CottonEase - Cotton/Acrylic blend
Red Heart Super Saver - acrylic
Sugar'n Cream Cotton Yarn - Cotton
Peaches & Creme - Cotton

KnitPicks is also known for it's affordable, quality yarn and supplies. However, they can only be found online. I recommend their Swish Worsted as a good wool yarn to start with.

Here are some needles you can start with:

Boye Straight Aluminum Knitting Needles - US Size 8
Clover Bamboo Straight Knitting Needles - US Size 8
Boye Circular Aluminum Knitting Needles - US Size 8
Clover Bamboo Circular Knitting Needles - US Size 8

I would also get a tapestry needle, like one of these. You'll need it to weave in the ends. Eventually you'll need other notions, but yarn, needles and a tapestry needle will get you started.

My Advice
Here is my advice about the materials you should start out with.

Whatever yarn you choose, get a light or bright color, and avoid multicolored or textured yarns. It's important that you can see the stitches. Avoid black, navy blue and other dark colors. I would also avoid yarns where two or more colors are twisted together, like this. Also avoid furry, hairy, fuzzy or textured yarns your first time knitting. Wait until you get the hang of things to try these out.

For all the reasons listed above, I recommend 100% wool, worsted weight. There are some relatively affordable options for wool listed above.

Unless you're knitting a dishcloth, avoid 100% cotton. It's too unforgiving for your first time out. In the absence of 100% wool, I think 100% acrylic or an acrylic blend is better than 100% cotton. (I've listed some cotton options above if you do want a dishcloth.)

If you can afford it, buy two sets of needles, one metal and one wood or bamboo. That way if one doesn't seem to work you can try the other.

If one type of yarn or needle doesn't work for you, try another. A lot of preferences are very personal. Hopefully I've given you an idea what to expect. So experiment until it works.

If you can afford it, go to a local yarn shop. You'll get good advice.

Be open to the advice of other knitters. A lot of people have different opinions, and I've only covered a small area. Another knitter may have a different yarn or needle for you to try.

Don't let lack of supplies stop you. I've given extensive commentary, in hopes of increasing your chances for success. But Bev108 was right. Even if you don't have perfect supplies, still give it a try. I would hate to think that our friend Trent wouldn't learn to knit because it was a "Money Free Weekend." But I'd also hate to think that our friend Trent would give up on knitting because he didn't have the right tools.

And always remember - Don't give up. And if you don't like my advice do what works for you. My feelings won't be hurt.

Thanks to everyone on Ravelry who answered my posts and contributed their experiences and advice.

n00b Corner: Your First Project (aka What's the Deal with Beginning Knitters and Wide Scarves)

A while back I read this article by David Demchuk on Knitty about first projects. The opening story about a young man struggling through his first project, a gigantic garter stitch scarf, was both familiar and troubling. I hadn't given much thought to the topic of first projects until I read that article. I realized that new knitters don't have the same sense of what a project entails, how long it will take and when to let it go.

A look at some first projects
I decided to start by finding out what beginners at my local yarn shops were knitting.

At Bluebonnet Yarn Shoppe, beginners are usually guided towards a scarf or a dishcloth, according to Suna, who teaches some classes there. The scarf or dishcloth may be in garter stitch or in a basket weave, depending on on whether the student learns the purl stitch. (We'll talk about what the stitches mean later on.)

Staci, who teaches at The Knitting Nest, said she usually teaches a "Garter Stripe Scarf" made from a combination of knit and purl stitches.

Tracy took the Knit 101 class at Hill Country Weavers. She said they began with dishcloths knit in a stitch pattern similar to Staci's garter stripe scarf.

I'm not sure if there is a specific project at Gauge, but I have witnessed Karli and the gang getting customers started on garter stitch scarves.

I learned from my Mom, with projects from The Workshop Book of Knitting. It's a great book that is sadly out of print (to my knowledge.) My first project was the first project in the book.

If you're having trouble seeing it, its a bookmark. One small square (about one inch by one inch) with a long tail added to go into the book. Tiny. Easy. Genius.

(I'm sure I have the actual bookmark somewhere, but I couldn't find it to take a picture. I'm sure it's packed away in a box somewhere.)

Garter Stitch Rectangle

Most first projects are garter stitch rectangles. That's about as easy as it gets. Most stitch patterns are built on two stitches, knits and purls. The garter stitch is nothing but knit stitches. (With the exception of knitting in the round, but don't worry about that right now.)

When I asked around online, Suna and Jean said they both started with doll blankets. Diana said she knit a coin purse from a kit. (I imagine this was one or more rectangles sewn together.) And some of the yarn shops do dishcloths.

But by far, the most common first project is a garter stitch scarf. It seems to be the place where everyone starts. Stefanie, Michelle and Jane said that's where they started.

Christine said her first attempt was with a garter stitch scarf "because my grandmother told me I had to learn a scarf. Yuck. I hated it and never finished." Sounds like the new knitter in Demchuk's article. (Knitting later stuck with her when she knit a dishcloth.)

But then there's Catherine who said she did nothing but garter stitch scarves during the first four years of knitting.

So a garter stitch scarf is one place to start. But really any rectangle will work. You can call it whatever you want.

Knit and Purl
I mentioned knit and purl stitches were the two main foundation stitches in knitting. The knit stitch seems to always come first.

Personally, I think getting comfortable with the motions of the knit stitch before tackling the purl stitch makes sense. You need time to get used to holding the needles.

I think some teachers throw in purling the first project to prevent boredom. However, the main drawback of spending a long time knitting before you learn to purl is that you find yourself more comfortable with knitting than purling.

In her book Knitting Without Tears, Elizabeth Zimmerman wrote:

"Why do so many of us object to purling? Is it because as children we are taught to knit first, and are then presented with purling as the second and more difficult step? Who knows? Who is willing to take a little innocent child and teach it to purl first? You must admit it's the trickier of the two."

I think that says it all.

Scope and Size
A few people who responded to my questions about first projects talked about starting with
larger, much more elaborate projects.

Ceci started with a top designed by Lily Chin. She was successful. She credits Ana, her teacher (and sister) for her success. Ana herself started with (and these her exact words) a "V-neck button-up vest with knit/purl texture panels made from cotton." (She adds "Yeah, I jumped straight into the deep end.") It must have worked, because Ana is still knitting today.

And then there's Pammie's story:

"My first knitting project was an afghan! Cabled strips that were to be sewn together! I never finished it. Last year I did something else with the yarn after over ten years. It took me a long time to pick up knitting after I started that monster and never finished it."

Eventually, Pammie did a garter stitch scarf, and it stuck.

Starting with large projects works for some, but I have a feeling it fails for most. In his article, Demchuk recommends socks as an ideal first project, to prevent boredom. This is a pretty radical idea, and I don't know it I'd recommend it. Socks may be small in size, but usually they are big on time and effort until you get the hang of them.

Do you want to learn to knit or make a project?
Personally, I think the best way to learn to knit is to just knit. Don't make a project. Just practice. Knitters knit for practice of experimentation a lot. It's called swatching.

I once heard of someone who decided to knit a complex cabled baby blanket. And she managed to learn enough to do it, but she never knit again. She wanted to make a project. She didn't want to learn to knit.

This is going to sound harsh, but it's true. Your very first knitting will suck. It won't stay that way, but it will take practice before it doesn't suck. When you first learned to write, it was probably illegible at first. If you've learned to play an instrument, you know it sounded bad at first. And when you learned to ride your bike, you probably fell off a few times.

The good thing about knitting is that when you make mistakes, you don't end up with skinned knees. And yarn unravels. So just muddle through until you get it. You'll see your knitting change for the better as you progress. The problem is that if you start a project right away, all that muddling may screw up your scarf, dishcloth or whatever that you make.

However, it's been mentioned to me that it is frustrating for many beginning knitters to not have a project or goal in mind. And at some point you want to start knitting something. But consider just practicing first.

Another tactic is to just accept that there will be mistakes in your first project. I've seen a first time knitter sit and unravel her scarf over and over again because it wasn't good enough. She did learn, but it made it frustrating for her. Even if you do a project, it helps to get out of the project frame of mind.

My Advice
So what does this all mean? You can come at your first project from all different angles. You should do what works for you, but here is my advice.

Keep it a small, simple rectangle. You'll be less frustrated if you start with just the knit stitch and get used to knitting. And you'll get a feeling of accomplishment when you finish. You also combat getting bored with something too easy. The next project can always be harder.

Don't make your scarf so friggin' wide! Back to Demachuk's article, don't get yourself stuck in the middle of a giant scarf. I think a lot of beginners make their first scarf extra wide because they feel like it needs substance. Err on the side of skinny. Skinny scarves are in (I think.) Or if you want a wider one, make it short and wear it with a pin. Also, set a specific goal for length, so you don't feel like you're knitting into oblivion. This is good advice for knitting any scarf. I'm about five feet tall, and usually I knit my scarves until they are about as long as I am tall.

Get out of the project mindset. Start with swatching for practice, or accept that there will be mistakes in your project. Don't quit knitting because you got frustrated with that specific project.

Don't unravel too much. You may want to fix huge mistakes, but I don't recommend aiming for perfection when you are starting out.

It's ok not to finish. If you chose something too hard, abandon it for something easier. You can always come back to it, or use the yarn for something else. If it's too easy and you're bored, move onto to something more challenging. Like Demchuk said, you can always make that scarf a potholder and move on.

And always remember - Don't give up. And if you don't like my advice do what works for you. My feelings won't be hurt.

Thanks to everyone on Ravelry who answered my posts and contributed their experiences and advice.

n00b Corner: Test Post

This post is a test. I'm writing this on June 28, and hoping it will publish on July 5 at 4 pm. (Oooooo....I'm talking to you from the past...Ooooooo)

In an effort to attract more readers, I'm toying with the idea of regularly scheduled posts on specific topics, written ahead of time.

The first one I want to try is "n00b Corner." And I mean the word n00b in the nicest sense of the word. I always want new knitters (and crocheters) to feel welcome.

The goal is to post topics that are helpful to new knitters and crocheters, as well as give more experienced knitters and crocheters a chance to look at things with fresh eyes and rethink their techniques. I plan to post this every Saturday. For now, I'll focus on knitting, but I'll probably add some crochet eventually.

If you have any ideas for topics feel free to let me know.

I'm going to see how well this works, and if I can keep the ideas coming. If this works, I may add other features. If you have any suggestions for topics you'd like to see, let me know.

If all goes smoothly, we'll have a real n00b corner post next Saturday (a week from today.)